Why starter wont engage

A fully charged battery should have a voltage of around In most cases, if it is below Once the voltage goes below 12 volts it is unlikely to have enough power to start a modern vehicle.

The starter motor is not always easy to access as it is usually fitted low down on the engine block so that it can engage with the flywheel. If you can hear the starter spinning but it is not engaging or the vehicle is not starting then there are a few simple checks you can carry out before you need to remove the starter from the vehicle.

If the starter is just spinning and the car is not starting then this usually means there is a problem with the starter solenoid or the starter pinion.

A problem with either part will stop the starter motor from engaging with the flywheel and this will stop the car from starting. A problem with the starter solenoid could be caused by sticky contacts or a problem with the magnetic coil that is needed to activate the starter bendix. Start by testing the battery with a voltmeter or multimeter to see if there is enough power in the battery to start the car. The voltage should read at least 12V to be certain it will start the engine.

If you are unsure about the battery then try jump-starting the car. You could also try charging the battery if you have access to a battery charger.

If the battery appears to have enough power to start the vehicle, then you may need to remove the starter for further inspection, especially if the battery checks out ok and the starter is making a whining or clicking noise when the ignition is turned on.

Yes, starters can just stop working. Usually, a starter solenoid will be the first part to go. This is because the solenoid has a lot of small movable parts that can become corroded over time. The internal contacts can stop moving or the magnetic coil can stop generating enough power to move the contacts if it becomes corroded enough. The starter motor itself is usually pretty resilient to old age but the moving bendix can become stuck in and not retract when power is removed.

This can cause damage very quickly to the bendix and the flywheel causing the starter to break immediately. To test whether the starter is bad or if it is the alternator start by checking the condition of the battery. If the battery checks out ok, then try to jump-start the vehicle to check if the starter is working.

The two small terminals are energized by a relay when you turn the ignition key. That makes the solenoid close the contacts between the two big terminals and supply power to the starter motor. So, you have already effectively jumped the solenoid by shorting the large terminals with the screwdriver. A load test can tell you if the battery is low. Next would be to check connections at the battery and starter motor. An auto parts store may be able to test the starter motor for you and make sure the gear is extending under power.

Call around. The solenoid serves TWO functions. When you simply jump the two large terminals all it should do is spin but not engage the flex plate. Battery shows 14v at the solenoid. Connections are clean. Flywheel is clean and no damage. I think I remember years ago that on some starters, just jumping the large terminals would just spin the starter motor - as I have here. If memory serves me, on some solenoids you have to jump from a small terminal to to a large terminal.

A fault-free supply of power to the starter is imperative for its successful function. The vehicle battery and the positive and ground supply of the starter should be included in the fault diagnostics. Electrical faults in the starter are mainly caused by overloads. This can manifest itself in ground and winding short circuits in the field and armature winding, but sometimes also in the coils of the control elements solenoid switch.

Carbon brushes and collectors are subjected to high loads and are more susceptible to faults than the alternator. While, for example, clamping carbon brushes in the alternator do not cause voltage to arise and thus relieve the alternator, clamping carbon brushes in the starter leads to the formation of significant arcs due to the high currents. These arcs often destroy the collector.

A multimeter and a clip-on ammeter are required for troubleshooting. Fault sources such as the pinion can, however, also be located through acoustic perception. Please also refer to the technical info: " Ground 31 ". Solenoid switch energizes: Remove battery cable from terminal 30 on the starter and connect directly to the contact screw below connection terminal US Newsletter Video Hella team.

Regardless of the number of times you try starting your car, it will fail. It happens your battery has a low voltage. The repetitive clicking sound is a weak electrical current to start the engine of your car. If the starter relay does not receive a full signal, your car will not start.

Sometimes your engine fires up immediately while at times it takes a couple of tries. If this happens to you, it might be a case of cumulated debris on the starter relay. You should clean it up and see if it solves the problem. If, after cleaning, it still behaves this way, then your starter relay has outlived its better days. After running all the checks, you might want to confirm your suspicion further.

A headlight diagnostic will rule out faults in your starter system. The test is simple. You will need an assistant to turn on the headlights of your car, and then start your engine. It means that there is an open circuit in your starter system, or the battery is dead. When battery terminals corrode, they prevent electrical current from reaching your starter motor.

When this happens, it can have more than one possibility. It could mean that your battery does not have enough charge. If the battery has sufficient charge, then the fault may be on the starting motor. A short may make starter motor to draw too much electric current.