Should i use cellulose insulation

Getting the insulation where it needs to be is much easier and more precise than meticulously cutting batts to size, making mistakes, and re-cutting. With loose fill insulation, it's relatively simple to hit a target R-value, such as R for your attic, just by blowing in more insulation. You don't have to unroll more batts, measure them, cut them, and lay them down. Loose fill insulation is also a good choice for uninsulated wall cavities. Using a "drill and fill" procedure, you can blow the insulation through a hole drilled into the wall near the top of each cavity.

Compared to batt insulation it's just an all around more versatile product. Other than that, the only other thing in cellulose is a fire retardant and insect repellant. Some manufacturers add additional chemicals for binding the materials together. Fiberglass is made from sand and glass. Sand, of course, is a natural resource, so the raw materials inside fiberglass come directly from the earth.

The bottom line? Cellulose is made mostly from recycled material and fiberglass is made mostly from natural resources dug from the ground. Keep that in mind if you're keen on making the an environmentally conscious choice. And remember, any insulation is a win for the environment since it reduces your AC and furnace use.

But don't worry. You're not in any danger. Neither are the many millions of other families with fiberglass and cellulose insulation in their homes. Both types of insulation can hold moisture. You see this most often in crawlspaces where fiberglass batts have been installed in the floor cavities. As humidity inside the crawlspace saturates the insulation, batts begin to sag and hang from below your floor. Eventually, some of them might even fall down. The solution to this problem, by the way, is to encapsulate your crawlspace.

This hazard can be particularly messy when you've got a roof leak. In addition to plugging the leak and repairing damaged sheetrock, you'll have to replace the insulation that got wet.

Depending on the nature of the leak, the insulation - fiberglass or cellulose - might be a sopping, moldy mess. At least one study concludes that cellulose retains less moisture than fiberglass. But remember, cellulose is paper.

There's a reason why they double-bag your newspaper on rainy mornings! Fiberglass, as you may have experienced, can also make you itchy. Whether batts or loose fill, little pieces of spun glass can become embedded in your skin. It's usually not enough to cut you, but it's enough to make you itch for several days. Got a dust mask? You'll need to wear one any time you work with or risk disturbing fiberglass insulation. While the National Academy of Sciences has concluded that fiberglass is not a human carcinogen , it's still known to irritate the nose and throat.

You're simply better off not inhaling little glass fibers. Installers are advised to wear respirators when working with it. If you've ever emptied out a paper shredder, this recommendation probably comes as no surprise. If you do touch your insulation or accidentally inhale some of the dust, the latest research suggests that any negative effects will be short-term and minor.

Whether you choose fiberglass or cellulose, your insulation will only block the movement of heat. It won't block the movement of air - and that matters. In a typical home, air infiltration is endemic. Outdoor air is constantly entering your home through gaps and cracks in the building envelope. At the same time, conditioned air is leaking out. Due to the stack effect , most of this leakage occurs at the top and bottom of your home - your attic and crawlspace.

Sure, there's insulation in your attic and crawlspace. But there's probably nothing to prevent air from moving past plumbing, air duct, and electrical penetrations.

Or attic staircase hatches. Or whole house fans. In spite of all their benefits, neither fiberglass nor cellulose insulation provides an adequate air seal. Only foam insulation and certain caulks can block air movement in a way that truly improves comfort and boosts energy efficiency.

Any time you're thinking about adding insulation to improve your home's thermal performance, consider air sealing as part of the same project. Have your insulation contractor seal all visible gaps and cracks inside the space you're planning to insulate.

You'll improve the overall performance of the new insulation you're buying. There are many different factors that can influence the most beneficial insulation choice. The pros and cons of both cellulose and fiberglass insulation are very similar, meaning that each type can almost always be used effectively in the same situation. At the same time, each can be used for unique projects, such as a drill and fill with cellulose insulation.

If you have any questions about which material you should choose for your renovations or upgrades, please contact us at or online at www. Our Customer Experience Team can also arrange for you to have a free insulation estimate to help you figure out your options. When it comes down to attic insulation , homeowners have a few options.

Another option is to use a type of hybrid insulation that combines either blown in cellulose or fibreglass batts with spray foam. This allows homeowners to reap the benefits of multiple products simultaneously. In other words, the cost-effectiveness of blown in cellulose or fibreglass batts can be combined with the strong energy performance of spray foam, creating a best of both worlds scenario that keeps costs down and performance levels up.

It is not common to find cellulose insulation used in a basement. As basement insulation , spray foam and fibreglass insulation are the most common choices for homeowners. In an unfinished basement, GNI often installs fibreglass insulation blanket wraps that allow for a cost-effective upgrade. Concerns of any possible water damage or moisture build up can be taken into consideration by the installer, so it is important that you have a professional evaluation and fix any underlying issues before you start making any upgrades.

Both cellulose and fiberglass insulation - whether as batts or blown in - can be used to tremendous effectiveness in a variety of situations. To declare a clear victor is rather difficult, especially since the pros and cons for each are similar and they both carry similar R-Values. A GNI insulation expert can help you decide on the material to use for each of your planned renovations or installs. It is worth keeping in mind that no matter what choice you make, blown in insulation and fiberglass batts are both capable of making several improvements to a home.

If you are strictly looking at cellulose insulation vs fiberglass for blown in insulation, the first thing you should do is get the opinion of an industry expert.

For a look into which product is more cost-effective in your current scenario, you can have a Registered Energy Advisor conduct a home energy audit. Thanks to everyone for the great ratings! Thank you again to everyone! Energy saving and energy efficiency is easier than one might think. Great Northern Insulation helps to identify performance issues, while taking advantage of improvement opportunities.

Dampened cellulose is a sticky material. It is sprayed directly into open wall cavities between the studs, right against the exterior sheathing, where it stays put. It provides a solid, airtight and completely filled wall cavity. The basic cellulose fiber used in the sprayed application is the same as that used in the blown application: recycled newsprint with chemical additives. The difference is that sprayed cellulose is dampened with water and sometimes a little adhesive is blended into the mix.

However, a water hose with high-pressure nozzle resembling a pressure washer is attached to the end of the fill hose. It sprays the fiber with a mist of water as it is fired from the hose. The spray dampens the surface of wall cavity at the same time to provide a sticky contact bond between the framing materials and the insulating fiber.

The flow of water is adjusted by the applicator to establish an important balance. The fiber must be damp enough to stick permanently to the wall, yet not so wet to cause moisture problems. The damp fiber is shot until the wall cavities are overfilled, just proud of the wall thickness. The overfilled walls are then scraped flat to match the exact thickness of the wall framing using a rotating brush called a scrubber.

Adding moisture to the wall cavity of homes is a touchy subject. One the fiberglass industry likes to promote as dangerous to structural and human health. The truth is a bad application can be dangerous and ineffective. An inexperienced applicator can introduce an unsafe level of water into a wall system.

Mold, mildew and even rot can result. On the other hand, skilled applicators achieve an effective and safe balance of moisture-to-fiber and provide a superb insulation system. Freshly sprayed cellulose should feel damp, but you should not be able to squeeze water out of a handful if you tried. As the sprayed cellulose insulation dries it stiffens and is very resistant to settling.

This normally requires a 2-day drying out period depending on the climatic conditions. The installer should check the MC using a moisture meter to assure the fiber is dry before authorizing a close-in of the walls. Sprayed cellulose is not all roses. An entire house can be insulated in one day, but it will be a very messy day. The inside of the house will resemble a combination of mid-winter blizzard and coastal fog.

Windows, doors, and electrical boxes must be protected with plastic sheeting and tape prior to installation. Blowing fibers irritate the respiratory tract and eyes so a protective mask and goggles are a must. A sea of waste fiber must be vacuumed and shoveled on an ongoing basis.

Spraying damp cellulose during freezing conditions is rough on equipment and drying time can drag to a crawl. And while priced competitively, it will cost a few hundred dollars more than fiberglass batt insulation. But the upside is worthy. Sprayed cellulose is an eco-friendly material that is installed at a high density.

Coverage is complete. There are no voids in the walls. All wire and plumbing penetrations are automatically and completely sealed. A professionally installed application is airtight, comfortable, energy efficient, and safe. There are fewer thermal short circuits and virtually no convective currents within the wall cavities. On the whole, customers report a less drafty, more comfortable living experience. As a bonus, many people think the superior air-tightness and absorptive qualities of sprayed cellulose provides a quieter indoor environment.

Comparing prices of competing insulation systems is difficult. Costs vary from location to location and even between applicators in any given area. As a rule, cellulose installations are competitively priced with fiberglass and much less expensive than foamed-in-place applications. But the Performance of any insulation system depends on the quality of its installation. Demand high quality.

Ask a lot of questions. Ask them how they achieve a high degree of air sealing and proper coverage. Ask for a list of references and be sure to call the references. Did the installers stay on schedule? Were they clean, organized, and courteous? Were customers satisfied with the completed project? Consumers hiring contractors must receive fact sheets about installed insulation. The receipt must show the coverage area, thickness, R-value and number of bags of fiber used.

New home sellers must list the type, thickness, and R-value of each type of insulation installed in each part of the house on every sales contract. Once you have chosen a contractor, be sure the total cost, payment schedule and warranty are clearly expressed. Be sure the installed R-value is documented. You want to know the installed R-value. There are many choices when it comes to insulating a home.